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Disclaimer: this post is based on my visit to the Iguazu Waterfalls in January, 2019.
From Buenos Aires you can take a plane to Puerto Iguazu. The flight time is around 1.5 hours. Puerto Iguazu is the gateway to visiting the Iguazu Waterfalls from the Argentinian side.
Did you know that these waterfalls are spread across three countries? You can also visit them from Brazil or Paraguay. I only went to the Argentinian side, but I can testify that the waterfalls are spectacular from this side.
I would advise staying in Puerto Iguazu. This city is located about 30 minutes from the waterfalls and has good connections to the Iguazu National Park.
There are several ways to get to the National Park from Puerto Iguazu. The easiest and fastest way is by taking a taxi.
If you’re traveling on a budget, you might be more inclined to take the bus. In that case, you need to go to the bus station of Puerto Iguazu. Several buses leave from here to the waterfalls. Be aware: the bus stop mentioned on the bus is called ‘Cataratas’, not Iguazu Waterfalls.
We paid €3 per person for a one way ticket. The bus ride takes about 30 minutes from the station to the park entrance.
Once you reach the entrance, you have to queue to get a ticket. I will already warn you in advance: you will be doing a lot of queueing and waiting when visiting the Iguazu Falls.
The entrance tickets sets you back €16.50 per person. You will also receive a ticket for the first train. Train, I hear you say? Yes, you have to take trains to get around the park. It’s also possible to walk, but this takes quite a lot of time.
As I just mentioned, you will be doing a lot of waiting. This is because you have to wait for the train to take you to the central station (Cataratas station).
Once you reach the central station, you can either start several hikes, or you can choose to go to the Devil’s Throat. This is the closest you get to the waterfalls.
To get there, you have to queue for another ticket. The train to Devil’s Throat leaves every 15 minutes. By the time we were waiting for the train to Devil’s Throat, we were already inside the park for two (!) hours. At this point we hadn’t seen any water yet.
When it was finally our turn to get on the train to Devil’s Throat, it only took about 20 minutes to get there. From the Garganta train station, you need to walk for about 30 minutes to get to the Devil’s Throat itself.
You will be walking on suspension bridges that cross the river. The walk is 1 kilometer long. Be aware that you will have to share the view with hundreds of other people. Everyone is fighting for the best spot to see the waterfalls.
This means that it’s not easy to get a picture of the waterfalls. You can opt to get a professional picture taken, for €8. After you’ve admired the view, you need to walk back to the Devil Throat’s station to queue for another ticket and wait for the next train to the central station.
Then you can opt to go on a hike from the central station, or go back to the main entrance. Once again: you need to queue for a ticket and wait for the train.
From the central station you can go on several different hikes. The most popular hikes are the superior and inferior circuits. If you go on these hikes, you see the waterfalls from above (superior) and below (inferior).
This hike gives you a panoramic view of the waterfalls from the upper walkways. On the way you will see parts of the inferior circuit and you will be able to see the Brazilian national park as well.
The walkway is approximately 1.75km long and will take around 1.5 – 2 hours. The hike is relatively easy, you don’t have to mount any stairs. The only thing you have to take into account is the humidity.
This hike takes you to ground level so you can admire the waterfalls from below. You will walk through the jungle which means you can enjoy the local fauna and flora (and spiders).
This hike also takes in between 1.5 – 2 hours, depending on if you walk the long or short loop. The inferior circuit is 1.7km long and the difficulty is medium to high. There are some steep stretches and you have to climb up stairs.
You can also find the following hikes in the Iguazu National Park:
Would you like to get even closer than the Devil’s Throat? Are you not afraid of getting wet? Then a boat trip to the waterfalls is the best option for you.
This is the priciest way to visit the waterfalls (think around €100). You can book them through a travel agency. We didn’t do this since it was a bit too expensive. But if you want to get up close, this is the best way to do it.
If you have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out below!
]]>This post is about The Salkantay Trek, and talks about which trek to choose, what company to go for and what to expect.
Disclaimer: this post is based on my experience doing the Salkantay Trek with Salkantay Trekking in September 2018
If you’re like me, and you like hiking, the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu is right up your street. There is something about earning your visit to Machu Picchu, instead of just taking the train and bus. Hiking to this new wonder of the world is very rewarding and an amazing experience.
The majority of people opt for the Inca Trail, but the spots for this trek fill up very quickly. There are plenty of alternatives which are as nice, or maybe even nicer. We opted for the Salkantay Trek, which takes you from the snowy Andes mountains, through the Peruvian jungle all the way to Machu Picchu.
The Salkantay Trek is a multiday hike (either 4 or 5 days long) which leaves from Mollepata and finishes in Machu Picchu. You will conquer 72 km in 5 days, climb to 4600 metres altitude (the Salkantay Pass) and descend to Aguas Calientes (the closest town to Machu Picchu).
Your legs will ache and at times you’ll wonder why you signed up for this. But on the last day, all your efforts and pain will be worth it: you will see Machu Picchu with your own eyes.
Like I said earlier, you can do the Salkantay Trek in either 4 or 5 days. What exactly is the difference between these two?
Does the 4-day trek leave from a different starting point?
No. Both the 4 and the 5-day trek leave from Mollepata. The difference is that during the 4-day trek, you will skip the jungle day (day 3). Instead, you will take the bus to the next starting point.
For me personally, the jungle day can easily be skipped since the jungle part isn’t that interesting and day 3 is basically a rest day. During this day you will do 4 hours of hiking, a coffee tour and get a chance to go zip lining or take a dip in the hot springs. It’s not a big loss if you skip this day and opt for a 4-day Salkantay Trek.
As you can imagine, there are plenty of companies to choose from.
We opted for Salkantay Trekking. This is considered one of the pricier ones. Since we were celebrating my birthday, and we were going to see Machu Picchu (the one place I’ve always wanted to go to), we decided to splurge a little bit.
There are plenty of cheaper options available, both online as in Cusco. We booked several months in advance to make sure it didn’t sell out, but once we were in Cusco we realised this wasn’t necessary. There were plenty of companies offering the Salkantay Trek with departures the following days.
These companies offer the trek at a much lower rate (around 150-200 dollars for 5 days). Do keep in mind that this means the overal quality of the trek won’t be as nice. You might be sleeping in tents, the toilet situation might be a bit off, the food might not be as much, etc.
The 5 day/4 night trip with Salkantay Trekking set us back 460 dollars per person. It’s obviously not cheap, but this company will make it worth your while!
What did we get for our 460 dollars?
The day before you leave for the Salkantay Trek, you will be asked to meet up at the office for a briefing and to meet your team members. You will also receive your duffle bag so you can pack for the next couple of days. Keep reading for tips about what to pack for the Salkantay Trek.
Your first day will be an early one. At 4 AM you will meet up at the office, from where you will be picked up and driven to Mollepata. The drive takes about 3 hours and you will stop for some breakfast (not included) along the way.
Once you get to the starting point, your guide will hand you some snacks and walking poles. He/She will give you some more information and will warn you that you might feel the effects of altitude sickness. I sure did…
Day 1 is the shortest day of them all: only 8 km and 500 metres dislevel. However, don’t be fooled. You are walking at a very high altitude. I was used to hiking in the Alps and did some hiking in the Himalayas as well, but suddenly I was hit with altitude sickness. I felt nauseous within the first 15 minutes. This didn’t bode well for the rest of the trek… Luckily our guide gave me and other people who were struggling some coca leaves and he made sure to stop regularly so I could catch my breath.
After 4 hours of walking you will reach your first camp: the sky domes. This was my favourite accommodation of the whole trek. Once you get there, you will get some lunch and some time to relax. You can either choose to stay at the sky domes or start another hike: to Humantay Lake.
Despite feeling bad, I joined the rest of the group to Humantay Lake. Luckily it takes only 1 hour to get from camp 1 to the lake. You will be rewarded with the most gorgeous views: the lake and Salkantay Mountain!
Here you will get some free time and plenty of time to take amazing pictures. Afterwards, it’s time to go back to camp, enjoy an amazing dinner and get ready for the hardest day of the Salkantay Trek: day 2.
Rise and shine! You will be woken up at 5 AM for some coca tea and breakfast. You will need the massive amounts of food they will serve you because day 2 takes you to the highest point of the trek: 4600 metres. Not only will you climb the Salkantay Pass, you will also hike for 24 kilometres.
Before starting your day, you will be offered the option of taking a horse up to the pass. However, it feels a lot better if you conquer the Salkantay Pass and the Trail of the Seven Snakes all by yourself!
The start of day 2 isn’t too challenging. The trail slowly makes its way up and you have time to adjust to the altitude. However, once you reach the 7 snakes (or also called “The Gringo Killer”, a set of switchbacks), you will really feel your legs and you might also feel short of breath. The guide will take his/her time to make sure you get past the Gringo Killer. Now you’re already at 4400 metres altitude. Only 200 metres to go to get to the Salkantay Pass!
You will most likely feel the altitude by now and your pace might drop a bit. But no worries, you will get to the Pass! And once you get there, you will be treated to some more coca tea, a sandwich and more snacks.
After about an hour, enough time to relax and take lots of pictures, you will start the descent towards Wayracmachay. Here you will have lunch.
After a tasty lunch, you will descend another 1000 metres until you reach camp 2: the Andean huts. Here, you will get the opportunity to take a shower for 2.50 euro.
Once again you will be treated to a delicious dinner before retreating into your huts.
Day 3 is considered a “resting day“. This is also the day you will skip if you decide to do the 4 day Salkantay Trek.
Don’t be fooled, however, you will still be walking for 4 hours today. Most of the way to Lucmabamba is downhill or flat, with some uphill stretches in between.
At around 11 AM you the hiking part of the day will already be over.
What will you be doing the rest of the day? Plucking coffee beans to make your own coffee, going ziplining or taking a dip in the hot springs. Your legs will be thankful!
You will spend the night in the jungle domes. You will be very happy to have half a day off because day 4 is another very challenging day…
On day 4 you will have to get up even earlier. You will be woken up at 4 AM by the Salkantay Trekking team. But it will be worth it because today you will catch a first glimpse of Machu Picchu!
Day 4 is a very long and tiring day. The first part of the day will be heavy and long: you will hike up 800 metres on a steep hill. After 2h and 40 minutes, you will arrive at the top of the hill from where you’ll get to see Machu Picchu!
The second part of the day consists of a 1000 metre downhill. Your knees will probably ache, and if you’re a bit like me, your feet will be covered in blisters.
The last part of the day is a 3-hour walk next to the train tracks leading to Aguas Calientes, which will be your “camp” for the day. You can avoid this (boring) part by taking the train for 30 dollars.
In Aguas Calientes you will be staying in a hotel which means you will be able to take a shower! You will also go for a very tasty dinner with your team members and your guide.
On day 5, your alarm clock will ring at approximately 3.15 AM. You will have to get up this early to make it on time to the gate which will open at 5 AM. At precisely 5 AM the gate will open, and you and hundreds of other people will hike up the last hill to Machu Picchu. You can also skip this part and take the bus up for 12 dollars, if you’d like.
The gates of Machu Picchu open at exactly 6 AM. The hike up takes about 45 min to an hour, and you will be very sweaty and tired.
Once you arrive at the gates, you will meet up with your team members and the time has finally come to enter Machu Picchu!
Your guide will take you through the whole site and give you lots of information for about 1-1.5 hours. Afterwards, he/she will make his way down and you will be left on your own. Now you can either hike up Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu mountain, or you can just explore the park until 1 PM.
The train back to Aguas Calientes will leave at around 4.15 PM. Since the guide has left by this time, you have to make sure to get there by yourself, but luckily it’s not too difficult. The guide will give you all the necessary documents and information.
AT 9 PM you will be back at your ho(s)tel in Cusco.
I get it, hiking for 5 days up to 4600 metres altitude sounds daunting… I totally understand if you feel like you won’t be able to do that. However, it’s definitely possible to train for the Salkantay Trek.
By the time we did the 5-day trek, we had already been travelling for more than 2 months. We were in pure holiday mode and had definitely indulged in lots of tasty Mexican food and cocktails. It’s not like we were in super shape. So what did we do to prepare for the Salkantay Trek?
We started preparing for it about 1 month in advance. We did several (short) hikes in Ecuador and then signed up for the Colca Canyon hike in Arequipa, Peru. This hike is considered one of the best ways to prepare for the Salkantay Trek or the Inca Trail. You can either do the 2 or 3-day trek. We opted for the 2 day trek since that one is more challenging.
We definitely struggled during the Colca Canyon hike, especially the second day. Despite that, it was a very good way to prepare for Salkantay. I would recommend it to anyone!
If you don’t have time to add the Colcan Canyon trek, I would advise to go for long walks for several weeks before leaving for Peru. Try to add a couple of jog sessions and make sure to raise your fitness levels.
One of the other things people are a bit scared of, is the altitude. Like I mentioned before, I struggled quite a lot with the altitude on the first day of the Salkantay Trek. There isn’t really much you can do to prepare for it except for bringing medication and coca leaves. The coca leaves really helped me conquer those high altitudes. You can easily buy them in local stores in Peru.
During the multiday hike, your main luggage will be stored in your hotel. If you’re changing hotels after you come back from the trip, the company will bring it to the new hotel for you.
You will be handed a duffle bag which will be carried by the donkeys. Make sure to also bring a day pack so you can bring snacks, water and some fresh clothes (t-shirt, socks) with you.
Here’s a list of what you should bring on the Salkantay Trek:
Before leaving for the Salkantay Trek, I was a bit worried about the “toilet situation“. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect and was honestly dreading that part of the hike.
Luckily, the toilets at the camps are very nice and well maintained. Especially the toilets at the sky dome camp were completely new and very clean. We had some clogged toilets at the jungle camp, but nothing too major. I was very pleasantly surprised, and clearly worried for no reason.
Disclaimer: This could differ for other companies. Since we booked with Salkantay Trekking (which is considered one of the more high end companies), the whole trip had a very high overall standard.
Speaking of bathrooms, I’m sure a lot of people are also wondering how often you get a chance to take a shower:
Here is a breakdown of the overall cost of the 5 day Salkantay Trek (per person):
Total: 569.20 euros per person
If you have any more questions or you feel like I didn’t tackle a certain topic, please feel free to leave a comment or reach out!
]]>One of the most iconic and colourful neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires is La Boca. This barrio is home to the Bombonera stadium, Boca Juniors’ home turf. As a massive football fan, Simen was dying to check out la Boca and la Bombonera.
Our first stop in Boca was, of course, La Bombonera. The closer we got to the stadium, the more blue and yellow houses and decorations we saw. The stadium is also painted in Boca’s blue and yellow colours.
You can visit the museum and take a stadium tour for only 10 euros. After seeing the cheap price, even I was up for taking a stadium tour. The tour lasted a whole hour and took us throughout the whole stadium and the visitor’s dressing room. If you want to visit Boca’s dressing room, you have to pay another 200 pesos (about 5 euros).
During the tour we learnt a lot about the history of Boca Juniors. The team was founded by 3 Italian immigrants who initially decided to play in black and white the kits. However, considering how colourful La Boca is, they felt those colours were a bit misplaced. So they decided to go to the harbour and pick the colours of the first ship they saw. As it happens, this was a Swedish ship, which explains why Boca’s colours are now blue and yellow. Even for someone like me, who isn’t particularly interested in South American football, the tour was very interesting and entertaining!
Caminito is the most touristic area of La Boca. It’s a very small area which only covers a couple of streets, however it’s very beautiful and cosy. The streets are full of colourful houses, bars and restaurants. This is probably the area where you’ll see the most tourists in Buenos Aires. It’s a delight to walk around and admire the beautiful houses and stroll the souvenir shops. However, like I said, it’s very touristic. There are tons of people trying to sell things everywhere and it’s very difficult to take pictures without any other tourists in it.
Despite its very touristic feel, it’s definitely a must see in Buenos Aires.
Boca is considered to be a more unsafe neighbourhood. Therefore we planned our visit in the middle of the day and made sure to be back in the safer Palermo neighbourhood after dark. However, it’s also important to know that it’s best to stay in the touristic areas of La Boca.
Simen had found an interesting restaurant where we could have some parilla for lunch. On the way there, we were stopped and shouted at by a local who very strongly encouraged us to go back to the area of La Bombonera and Caminito. We weren’t quite sure why he was shouting, but we both figured it couldn’t be anything good. So, we quickly turned back and decided to have lunch elsewhere…
Considering that watching a Boca Juniors home game, is on many football fan’s bucket list, it comes as no surprise Simen wanted to tick that off his personal bucket list.
After doing lots of research, he found the best travel agency to accompany him to the game. This agency is called Landing Pad and offers several tickets to Boca Juniors and River Plate games. Since Boca is a bit unsafe, like I said before, it’s important to go to a game with a travel agency. There are certain rules when it comes to going to the game (don’t wear your Boca shirt in certain neighbourhoods, don’t wear red/white clothes etc.) and Landing Pad will keep you up to date about all of those.
Also, it’s apparently extremely hard to get your hands on tickets. A lot of fake tickets are being sold. So if you see a cheapish Boca Juniors ticket, you can be almost 100% sure it’s fake. Landing Pad offers tickets from like 150 – 250 euros.
Simen told me the atmosphere in the Bombonera is amazing. People are singing, shouting, jumping, etc. He had an amazing time even though, unfortunately, Boca Juniors lost.
San Telmo Market is a market which takes place every Sunday from 10 AM to 4 PM at Plaza Dorrego. It’s mainly an antique market, however, the market has expanded over several blocks (in Defensa, starting from Plaza de Mayo) and is full of stalls selling artesanal handcrafts.
Since we’re not particularly fans of antiques, we actually enjoyed strolling those handcraft stalls a lot more. It’s so cool to see how creative people are and what they can make with their own hands and minds.
There’s also a small food market located in Defensa (the street which connects Plaza de Mayo with Plaza Dorrego) where you can buy home made dulce de leche or where you can try bondiola or choripan on the barbecue.
It’s a very nice way to spend a Sunday afternoon!
I was quite surprised when Simen mentioned that the National Museum of Art houses works of Rubens, Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Jackson Pollock, etc. We were both intrigued. Which is surprising, since we hadn’t been to one art museum since we left for our trip. But, it sounded like the museum had an amazing collection, and from what we read online, entrance was free!
So, we decided to pay the museum a visit. As expected, due to Argentinian recession the entrance was no longer free (for foreigners). However, it’s still very cheap. We paid 150 pesos each (around 1.80 euros) to get in.
The museum has 3 floors full of beautiful paintings, sculptures and artworks. I was very surprised to see that a big part of the ground floor was dedicated to Flemish and Dutch painters. We also saw works by Rodin, Manet, Monet, Kandinsky, etc.
The museum was very interesting and definitely a must if you’re into art!
I always think it’s a bit macabre to have a cemetery as one of your major attractions, however Recoleta Cemetery is definitely a interesting place to visit.
I don’t know that much about Argentinian history or its famous people, but in Recoleta Cemetery you can visit the graves of Eva “Evita” Peron, Argentinian presidents and Nobel prize winners.
The cemetery is full of stately and big mausoleums. It is actually considered one of the 10 most beautiful cemeteries in the world.
The last couple of days it’s been excruciatingly hot in Buenos Aires. To get some shelter from the heat, we decided to go to the Japanese Garden.
To enter this beautiful garden, we paid 150 pesos (1.80 euros). It looks like a small oasis in the middle of a bustling, hectic city. There are several koi-ponds, red bridges and Torii Gates. We walked around for about an hour, and we both agreed that the gardens felt very peaceful.
There was also room for some pictures of all of Japan’s provinces, which made it clear to us: Japan is rightfully on our bucket list. Maybe it’ll be our next big destination after we come back from our trip?
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Punta del Diablo is a small surfers town in the East of Uruguay. In winter, only about 800 people live in this town. During summer, however, the number goes up to about 20.000 people.
The town has 3 different beaches which are all very beautiful. It’s a very laid-back place where Uruguayans, Brazilians and Argentinians spend their summers. As I said, it’s also a very small town, considering it only has 2 relatively “big” supermarkets and only 1 ATM.
There are quite a lot of restaurants and bars in Punta del Diablo, which are all very cosy. It’s the ideal spot to wind down and relax!
We rented a very cute cabin a bit outside of the city centre (about 30 minute walk to the coast). We spent most of our time at this cabin, since I got a very bad sunburn on our very first day in Punta del Diablo. Just my luck…
Despite it being very warm (30+ degrees), the water was actually quite cold. Unlike Simen, who swam several times, I stuck to lying on the beach completely covering myself up to not damage my skin any more!
After our 4-day “mini-break” (from our big break), we travelled to Punta del Este. This is a big resort town located in between Montevideo and Punta del Diablo. Its nicknames are “The Monaco of the South” and the “Hamptons of South America”, which, I think, says enough. It attracts lots of tourists because of its beautiful beaches. While Punta del Diablo is more a laid-back surfers haven, Punta del Este is more a place “to see and be seen”.
We only spent 2 nights in Punta del Este, considering it’s the most expensive place in Uruguay. Here we saw the 2nd “Hand in the Desert” in South America. The first one is located outside of San Pedro de Atacama, which we saw when travelling through Chile.
One of my personal highlights in Punta del Este was the “Cat Café”. Here you can play with 7 cats in exchange for a drink. It was a really cool initiative and you could see the cats were loving the attention! Simen made a new best friend as you can see:
We spent 2 weeks exploring Uruguay, but we both agreed that Uruguay is a relatively “boring” country. There isn’t that much happening and it doesn’t have that many crazy highlights. It became quite clear why it’s not really considered a touristic destination.
However, I did really like Colonia because it was so cosy and picturesque. Punta del Diablo was also very nice and relaxed. But, I wouldn’t really advise people to consider Uruguay as a holiday destination. It can’t quite live up to adventurous and beautiful Argentina.
After another short stop in Montevideo, we travelled back to Buenos Aires. We’re staying here until our flight leaves for New Zealand. This means that our 6 months in South America are almost over! It’s really crazy how fast time flies…
Before we leave South America, I will publish another blog about Buenos Aires!
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We stayed in Puerto Iguazu, about 30 minutes drive away from the Iguazu Waterfalls. From the bus station in Puerto Iguazu, you can take several buses heading towards the park (usually indicated as Cataratas). We paid €3 p.p. one way.
After 30 minutes, we finally arrived at the park entrance. Here we had to queue for a while to get a ticket (€16.50 p.p.). It was very obvious that the Iguazu Waterfalls are an extremely popular tourist destination.
After purchasing our ticket and entering the park, we had to wait for one of the trains which was going to bring us to the central station of the park. Yes, there are trains driving you around, this shows you how touristic it is.
Once we arrived at the central station, we had to queue again. This time to get a ticket to the Devil’s throat station. Devil’s Throat is where you get to see the biggest waterfall from close by. Once you get a ticket to the Devil’s throat station, you have to queue again. The trains leave every 15 minutes, but we ended up waiting for almost an hour before our train left.
However, as is quite common in South-America, nothing is really indicated. We saw tons of other gringo’s, looking confused, trying to figure out this very inefficient system. By now we had been in the park for almost 2 hours and we hadn’t even seen any water yet! Visiting the Iguazu Waterfalls requires lots and lots of patience and waiting in the scorching heat while cute coati’s try to steal your food.
Around 11 AM, we were finally on our way to the Devil’s Throat station. From here you have to walk about 1 km to get to the waterfall. You’re walking on suspension bridges hanging over the river. Once we reached the Devil’s Throat, we had to fight for about 10 cm of space to take a picture and/or a video. It was basically impossible to get a picture by yourself, it was way too crowded.
Since we wanted to get a picture of us and the waterfall, we decided to pay for a professional photograph (€8). The photographers have a small stand on the bridge, which makes it seem as if you’re the only one visiting. In reality, it’s crazy crowded and you don’t really get to see that much of the waterfalls… When you do though, it’s super impressive! I’ve never seen a waterfall this big.
After spending about 20 minutes at Devil’s throat, we decided to walk back to the station. Once again, we had to queue for a new ticket to get on one of the next trains which would take us to the central station. This time we only had to wait for about 30 minutes.
Once we reached the Central Station, we decided to hike two of the trails: the superior and inferior one. If you do these hikes you can either see the waterfalls from above (superior) or from below (inferior).
The first hike we did was the superior one. This one took about 1.5 hours and took us all the way up to the waterfalls. We stopped a lot to take pictures because it was super impressive.
After a quick stop to have lunch, we continued hiking towards the inferior trail. As I mentioned before, this trail takes you to ground level so you get to see the waterfalls from below.
This trail took about 1.5 hours as well but can take up to 2 hours if you take the long trail. Since it started to rain while we were on the inferior trail, we decided to cut it a bit short and only did the 1.5 hour loop.
The waterfalls are super impressive from all sides. In my opinion, the inferior trail gives you the best views on all of them, but both trails are a very good option to get close by.
For those who have lots of money, a boat ride is also an option. These boats bring you very close to the waterfalls. We had considered it, based on the prices we had seen online: €10-25 (depending on how bad the recession was).
However, when we entered the park, we realised the prices had gone up to €50 p.p. Argentinian recession strikes again… Since some people online had said that even €10 was a bit steep for this 20 min. boat ride, we were really not willing to pay €50.
We’re not quite sure you’d see that much more from the boat than you do from the suspension bridges and the trails. If you take the superior or inferior trail, you already get very close to the waterfalls. In my opinion, there isn’t really any point in doing the boat ride.
On the way back, we decided to just walk back to the entrance of the park, otherwise we had to queue for another ticket and another train. The walk back to the entrance took only about 15-20 minutes, so it was definitely very doable.
Our stop in Iguazu was very short and a bit on the expensive side, but we were both very happy we made the detour. The waterfalls are so impressive and should be on the bucket list of anyone visiting Argentina. You won’t be disappointed!
]]>The first day we drove to Villa la Angostura, which is part of the Seven Lakes Route. This Route is known for its beauty because you drive past gorgeous lakes, rolling hills and rocky mountains. We didn’t manage to do the whole Seven Lakes Route because we didn’t have unlimited mileage.
The Seven Lakes Route usually goes from Bariloche to San Martin de Los Andes and takes about 280 km round trip. Since we were planning on going to Circuito Chico the next day, we decided to cut the trip short and only drove until Villa la Angostura.
The whole way to Angostura was gorgeous, I could see why people advised us to do the Seven Lakes route. It reminded me a lot of Lake Tahoe in California/Nevada. There were lots of pine trees, beautiful lakes with crystal clear water and sometimes even snow-capped mountains.
After we had lunch in Angostura, we decided to continue towards a couple of viewpoints. We were advised to go to the Bahia Mansa and Bahia Brava, two beautiful bays about 4 km away from Angostura. It was clear that Angostura is a very popular touristic destination. There were tons of people swimming, hiking, taking boat trips on the lake etc. It’s the perfect holiday destination year round since you can also ski in winter.
The lady at the car agency had advised us to go to Circuito Chico because according to her it was one of the must-sees. So on day 2, we made our way over to the start of the Circuito, about 30 km away from Bariloche.
The Circuito Chico is a 30-km long loop which takes you past more beautiful lakes, restaurants, picnic places, hiking routes etc. A lot of people rent a bike to bike the whole loop since it’s very doable and boasts gorgeous views.
Along the way, there are several viewpoints which offer amazing views over the Lake district area. It was crazy to think that Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas were just across the border (about 300 km to the west). Bariloche and its surroundings were a lot more beautiful than Puerto Varas, in our opinion at least.
It took us about an hour to do the whole loop, including pictures stops. We actually did the loop twice, because we decided to have lunch in one of the restaurants which overlooked the Lago Moreno. This was definitely one of the more picturesque lunch stops I’ve ever been to.
After driving the Circuito a second time, we decided to go to the Cerro Campanario. This is a hill overlooking the Circuito Chico and the lakes and can be accessed by cable car. The cable car set us back €10 each. Once we reached the summit, we not only got to see the Circuito Chico but also Bariloche. It was a spectacular view!
We stayed for about 15 minutes on top of Cerro Campanario, enjoying the views. Afterwards, we decided to head down again and drive back to Bariloche.
I was very bummed to not have been able to explore Bariloche a bit more. It’s such a beautiful region! I would recommend it to anyone visiting Argentina, and I’m hoping to maybe return one day.
On our last day in Bariloche, we had to get to the airport by noon to take a flight to Buenos Aires. From here we continued onwards to the Iguazu Waterfalls. Read more about that in my next blog!
]]>There are 2 companies which offer the route El Chaltén to Bariloche: Chaltén Travel and Taqsa Marga.
Chaltén Travel offers the route in two legs: the first bus takes you up to Los Antiguos (10 hour travel time). Here you have to change buses and take the bus to Bariloche (12 hour travel time).
Taqsa Marga offers the 24 hour bus ride in one go. However, we had read that this bus had broken down before and the 24 hour ride had turned into a 30+ one. Since we didn’t want to risk being on the bus even longer, we decided to go for El Chaltén Travel.
Our tickets were very expensive: €90 per person. It’s very obvious Argentina is in a recession, since all the prices are extortionately high… Compared to 2016-2017, the prices have increased tenfold!
Our bus to Los Antiguos was scheduled to leave Chaltén at 9 PM. Since we didn’t want to risk missing the bus, we had dinner at the bus station. At exactly 9 PM, we were waiting outside the bus, ready to start the long journey. The bus arrived at around 8.50, but it took until 9.25 for the bus driver to open the luggage compartment. As is pretty typical in South-America, we didn’t get any info as to why the bus was 30 minutes delayed. At 9.35 we were finally on our way.
This bus would take 10 hours to get to Los Antiguos. The bus was not really equipped for a night journey, since it was a normal day bus. The seats didn’t really recline, it wasn’t a double-decker, and there wasn’t much space. It almost felt like a bus you’d take to go on excursions, not a night bus at all. We weren’t quite happy about that, especially Simen with his long legs. But we decided to make the most of it. We got relatively comfortable and at around 11 PM I tried to get some sleep.
At around 11.45 however, the bus suddenly stopped. Simen and I exchanged worried looks. Hopefully there was nothing wrong with the bus… When the driver turned off the engine, we both said: “Uh oh, that can’t be good.” Unfortunately for us, it wasn’t good at all.
Once again, there was zero information from the bus drivers. We only picked up on what was happening because other people asked for info. Apparently, the clutch of the bus was broken. This meant they could switch on the engine but not actually start driving…
As if that wasn’t bad enough, we were in the middle of nowhere without any cellphone reception! Luckily, one of the bus drivers had brought a satellite phone. The plan was to try to reach someone in Chaltén, and ask them to send a bus from El Calafate. This would take at least 4 hours… Then we realised we were in for a very, very long night.
Unfortunately for us, this satellite phone didn’t seem to work. We had no means to get in touch with anyone while we were stranded in the middle of nowhere at midnight. At some point another bus drove past us, which ironically was the Taqsa Marga bus also going to Bariloche. They picked up our bus driver and decided to drive him to the nearest town, from where he could call the Chaltén office and ask for a bus to pick us up.
Since we realised this was going to take a while, everyone went back to sleep. At around 2.45 I woke up because an empty bus had arrived. I woke Simen up saying that our bus had arrived. The bus was empty and had parked next to us, this had to be our bus right?
Wrong again. This bus turned around and parked on the other side of the road. Everyone was now complaining because we were still not getting any info from the drivers and we had now been stranded for more than 3 hours. After a while, people started to fall asleep again.
The bus driver woke us up at around 6 AM. The empty bus was still standing on the side of the road. We didn’t understand, there had been an empty bus right next to us, but we weren’t allowed to get on?
Suddenly, a bus showed up coming from the other direction. This bus was already full of people, who now all had to get off and get on the empty bus which had been waiting next to us for 3 hours. We were sent on the bus which had just arrived.
What was the point of that bus arriving at 2.45? No one knows. Why couldn’t we get on that bus and continue our journey and thus only lose 3 hours instead of 6? No one knows.
Everyone was grumpy because our 24 hour bus ride had now turned into a 30 hour one… At 6.30 we were finally on our way to Los Antiguos.
The bus from Los Antiguos was scheduled to leave at 7 AM. Since we had only gotten on our new bus at 6 AM, we were all 100% sure we were going to be stranded in Los Antiguos. No way they’d wait for 6 hours for us, right?
This was the first time that day we were lucky, because the bus did actually wait for us! At 12 PM we finally arrived in Los Antiguos, and managed to get on the new bus to Bariloche. By now we had been travelling for 15 hours, and we still had a 12 hour bus ride to go…
Luckily, the second bus ride was very uneventful. Our bus driver wanted to make up for the delay and actually managed to get us to Bariloche faster than expected. Everyone on the bus was calling their hostel/hotel to inform them we’d be arriving after midnight and not at 5 PM as expected. However, we managed to arrive at 10.30 PM, which was a big relief because this meant we were still able to check in at our hotel.
After this “adventure”, we both said we really wished we had flown to Bariloche. This bus ride was a total disaster. We would advise anyone who’s not sure what to do, to take the plane. However, we would recommend booking your tickets well in advance so you don’t have to pay €300 p.p.
Bariloche is totally worth the hassle of getting there. It’s such a gorgeous place and the Seven Lakes route and Circuito Chico are so beautiful! We didn’t regret our visit to Bariloche at all.
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On our first day in Chaltén, we only arrived in the afternoon. In order to prepare ourselves for the longer hikes on day 2 and 3, we decided to go for a short afternoon hike to the Condor Lookout. The trail to the Condor lookout starts at the visitor’s centre and the whole hike only takes about 1 hour. Ideal to get some walking rhythm in those legs!
The trail up to the lookout is very accessible and not steep it all. It gradually makes its way up to the lookout from where you get a gorgeous view on the Torres and Mount Fitz Roy. As the name indicates, it’s a great spot for condor spotting. We were up there for about 5-10 minutes and spotted 3 condors!
On day 2 of our stay, we decided to do the longest hike: Laguna de los Tres. All blogs I’d read said this hike was a must since it boasts the most spectacular views on Mount Fitz Roy. However, it’s a very long and tiring hike. The whole hike takes between 7 and 9 hours and is 22 km long (round trip).
The hike starts from the parking lot at the end of San Martin road. We decided to start the hike at around 10.15, aiming to be back at 18.15. The first part of the hike is gradually uphill, offering some gorgeous views of the neighbouring valley and the Rio de las Vueltas river.
Basically, the first 9-10 km of the hike are very doable and not too demanding. Some parts are a bit steeper than others, but it’s generally not very hard. The hardest part is the last kilometre. The first 9 km took us about 3 hours, while the last one took us a whole hour! That says a lot… The last kilometre is basically straight up. The trail zigzags up and our calves were hurting a lot. Everyone was out of breath and impatiently waiting to reach the lake.
We had to take several breaks to catch our breaths, that last kilometre was killing us! At some point I thought we had finally arrived, only to see another hill just around the corner. It was merciless. Finally after an hour of suffering, we reached the Laguna de los Tres.
In my opinion, the suffering was worth it. Simen didn’t entirely agree since he felt like the effort didn’t weigh up to the reward. Also, the views reminded him a lot of our hike to Mirador base de las Torres in Torres del Paine. We had lunch at the lake, enjoying the views of Fitz Roy and the gorgeous blue lake, before making our way down again. We were back in Chaltén by around 6 PM, happy to give our tired legs some rest!
The last hike we did in El Chaltén was Laguna Torre. This is also a longer hike, 18km, but only takes about 6 hours. This hike brought us to the Laguna Torre, which gave us beautiful views on the Torres (the 3 towers).
The start of this hike was a bit more difficult to find. From San Martin street you’ll spot a sign pointing you in the right direction, but at certain points the road forks and the signs disappear. Not very convenient… You basically have to keep walking straight (don’t take a right) towards the hill. The trail starts behind the houses at the back of Las Loicas street.
The start of the hike is quite a lot of uphill and downhill, but all in all the road goes up quite gradually. The first part is mainly uphill, while the second part is mainly downhill. After walking through a valley for about an hour, you’ll reach a forest (the most boring part). After the forest, it takes about another 2 km to reach the lake. Those last 2 km are relatively easy.
After our heavy hike from the previous day, we were very happy to reach the Laguna Torre. The lake itself isn’t as beautiful as the Laguna de los Tres, since the water has a more greyish colour. However, the views are still very beautiful!
After a quick lunch and some pictures, we decided to walk back. We were both happy to take a hiking break after our many hikes in Torres del Paine and El Chaltén.
Our next stop was San Carlos de Bariloche. But to get there, we had to travel for 24 hours by bus! More about that in my next blog.
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The tour operator picked us up from our hostel at 8.45 and after a couple of other stops, we were on our way to Parque Nacional los Glaciares. We drove for about one hour, until we reached the entrance of the park. Here we had to pay for our entrance ticket (700 pesos, €16). If you pay by card, you have to get off the bus here to pay at the ticket booths. If you prefer paying in cash, you can stay inside the bus. Staff members of the park board the bus and sell you the tickets there.
From here it takes another 30 minutes by bus or car to reach the ferry stations. On the way to the ferry stations you get tons of viewpoints from where you get amazing views on the glacier. The Perito Moreno Glacier totals 250 km² and is the second biggest glacier in Argentina (the Viedma Glacier is the biggest at 970 km²!). The minute you lay eyes on the glacier, you’ll be impressed by its size and beautiful blue colour.
Our guide got us our boat tickets, so we didn’t have to worry about anything at all, and we embarked the boat once we arrived at the station. The boat ride took 60 minutes and brought us up to 100 metres away from the glacier. Our boat was filled to the brim, which meant we were about 120 people in total. The boat had indoor seating for everyone, but the outdoor area is actually not that big.
Since, obviously, everyone wanted to get a good look of the glacier, the outdoor areas were full of people. At times it felt a bit like we were packed in like sardines. Luckily, we were one of the first ones out, so we got a chance to take pictures before everyone else started to arrive. However, after a while, it got a bit too packed for Simen, who decided to admire the glacier from inside the boat.
The glacier is quite active, and at times there were big chunks of ice falling down, which was really impressive! After taking dozens of pictures and admiring the glacier for about 50 minutes, it was time to head back to shore.
After our boat ride, the bus dropped us off at restaurant Nativos de la Patagonia. Here we got about 2.5 hours of free time to explore the footbridges. There are several loops which depart from here, which all offer amazing views on the Perito Moreno glacier. The most scenic one, however, is the “yellow trail”. This trail brings you past the first and second balconies. From these balconies you’ll be able to enjoy spectacular views on the glacier. We hiked both the yellow and the red trail.
The footbridges are very safe and secure, and are an easy way to hike close to the glacier and get amazing views. Along the footbridges you’ll also spot professional photographers who will take your picture for you, if you’d like.
After our hikes, we went to the restaurant for a quick snack before hopping on the bus and heading back to Calafate. The whole excursion took about 7-8 hours and was very nice and very well organised.
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